Under Sail to Mt Waddington: Reporting from the Summit Push

You may remember the story in frequency TSJ #8.2 about a group that set sail for Alaska’s Mt St Elias with the goal of climbing and riding 18,000 feet back to the ocean. Well, the same core crew has set sail for BC’s Mt Waddington–the highest peak in BC’s Coast Mountains–to attempt a circumnavigation of the peak, summit, and ride some mind-bending couloirs along the way. Down to their last few days in the mountains, conditions improved, and the crew made a move–this just in from Taylor Woodward, who’s recovering from his crevasse fall in camp:

“Steve’s team made a push the last two days on the South Face of Waddington, making it to 12,700 feet at the base of the summit pinnacle. They had to bivy on the route with eventually a retreat, out of gas after 36 hours of push. They are back at the north end of Jester Pass safely. Steve and Adam’s effort was impressive considering there have only been 6 successful parties to climb this route.

Dave and Ryan made a push towards the Northwest Summit of Waddington but got turned back around the North Ridge junction at the Angel Glacier confluence due to a whiteout. They are currently at the South end of Jester Pass, in regular contact with Steve’s party. All involved will be heading back tomorrow, foreseeably 3 days from their position 50 miles in, to the Homathko camp.”

There you have it–no summit, but a fair bit of riding and climbing–from sea to near summit once again, and all are headed out safe and sound. Enjoy the sail home.


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