A few locals remain in the far reaches of Italy’s Valle Maira, where they scrape out a living from the handful of tourists that visit The Black Hole of Europe, where the population density is lower than Alaska. A crew of splitboarders explore the valley’s extensive mountains and find big lines, even bigger meals, and a culture that reflects the areas deep history–a culture that is slowly becoming extinct.On an insignificant peak in a forgotten side-valley, our ascent comes to an end and our dilemma begins. For the last four hours we have been laying skin tracks in knee- deep powder. The traverse of a steep flank is behind us. We stand, drenched in sweat, on an icy wind-swept ridge that offers next to no edge hold. I begin to question the sanity of the whole undertaking…

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