Under Sail to Mt Waddington: Reporting from Homathko Camp and Mystery Pass

You may remember the story in frequency TSJ #8.2 about a group that set sail for Alaska’s Mt St Elias with the goal of climbing and riding 18,000 feet back to the ocean. Well, the same core crew has set sail for BC’s Mt Waddington–the highest peak in BC’s Coast Mountains–to attempt a circumnavigation of the peak, summit, and ride some mind-bending couloirs along the way. Our first correspondence from Captain Steve Hyatt can be found hereand a second report here–with this just in…

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Weather continues to hammer the mountain, with over four feet of snow in the past four days. Dave and Ryan are camped at Mystery Pass, while Steve and Adam are holed up on the Dais Glacier. Taylor sent an email our way from Homathko Camp where he is shaking off a sprained ankle sustained in a crevasse-related incident:

“I got flown out yesterday by White Saddle Air from our splendid glacier camp above the accident site. The 4 day storm total was over 4 feet of snow; Dave and Ryan headed back over the col to Mystery Pass for a descent down the Ice Valley Glacier to explore the Dais Glacier drainage, at the base of Mt. Waddington. They are scaling back their objectives but Jester Mountain, Ice Valley Peak and other objectives on the flanks of Waddington will be in order. Steve phoned here last night and they are safe near Jester Pass waiting for some extended weather window to start climbing. Right now the weather is fair but the avalanche conditions are horrendous. Both teams plan on meeting up shortly near Jester Pass and will be leaving the range together in the next 5-6 days. I on the other hand will be spending my time fishing near camp, looking for grizzly bears. My ankle is healing and I hope to shed the crutches shortly.”

And so it goes when trying to climb and ride a big, remote mountain on the BC coast…


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